The label just said muraitic acid, no list of added ingredients. Different copper alloys patina very differently. Different colors for different hardnesses. There was a whole subset of weavers who jumped into weaving metal wire and plastics and paper and every other substance that we could wrap around each other which is why Interweave put out a book on it. The book also tells you where each chemical etc was obtained. It was a confusing mix. Those pieces came out of the pickle pot green as well.
Some of the patina books list the compositions and a quick google can find a few also: Best Wishes, Debbie Engle Yes metal dyes. Over here in Europe, we always start when talking about metals and alloys with a specification. An explosion of patination methods from beginner to advanced skill levels! If you find a nice picture of a patina you then need to find the recipe at the back of the book using a strange numbering system. I still find it amazing how much can be done to change the color of metals. It should either say Start Watching or Continue. This is a patina bible with excellent photos and very clear instructions. It might show you know what your talking about.
There was the issue that setting up a loom for this sort of work requires a lot more than I had. It did a slight green patina, but not the in your face almost glow in the dark bright apple green. It only worked with the swimming pool acid I bought a gallon jug size of the acid. There are so many prepared patinas out there, and what I like to use, I learned by trial and error. The steel tongs I had paid too much for at Williams Sonoma.
The order of the book proceeds as follows: after the introduction, and an explanation of the book which is a precis of what is to come , there are six chapters. It is not quite as user friendly for me as I'd hoped because most of the techniques are chemical heavy and require a variety of chemicals that I don't have on hand. I met them on my frequent visits and they certainly had the time and facilities to do their tests accurately. Because as a rank beginner I tried using it and was frustrated with the results. Did I get weights exact? Same product - just marketed to a different artisan group polymer artists. This book is an inspirational resource, a how-to guide, and a book that you have long been waiting for. I wouldhave had to build out a custom rig to handle the stresses on the loom fromthe counterweights that were required to weave metal.
Because I was trying to patina mokume I wanted recipes that would offer very distinct differences in appearance on each metal. It is an expensive book and as a usable book in the shop, for me anyway, it is not. This book is an inspirational resource, a how-to guide, and a book that you have long been waiting for. Pretty sure I'll be very proud of myself when i do! Boy today I am Mr. Choosing and controlling coloration methods ; Choosing a coloration method ; Comparing coloration processes ; Variables affecting colorations ; Metal surface protection -- Chapter 5. If you want to see on display every color you might want to try to achieve as an effect on all sorts of metals, this book is invaluable to you.
I put it on the shelf and found Patricks book and, if needed, that book is what a client gets to get ideas as to what patina they might want, as I know the patinas in that book are doable and repeatable. Patina offers a collection of over 300 metal patination recipes, application instructions, and full-sized samples for anyone working in metals, including jewelers, sculptors, and metal artisans. Swimming pool acid is easily obtained. Patina discusses variables that affect the overall metal coloration such as surface preparation, chemical formula, application method, and more. This book has wonderful pictures of the different types of patination you can get on various metals.
Sorry for the cold water, but I never recommend this book as a resource. Chapter 5 has burnishing and layering. Thank you, Matthew Runfola, for a very remarkable accomplishment! This is a wonderful job on a very complicated technique written for us by an author who loves what he does. If someone is going to quote a a copper alloy try a specification. I just added a nice car wax polish on top, and it is still nice 30 years later.
All recipes feature step-by-step illustrated instructions. I know of no university classes that even come close to delving into the subject with such intensity. If the server does not provide a quick download, then we remove it from the list. Bit more wax, and its done. If you are not familiar with handling dangerous chemicals you should learn before using some of these formulas.
I like it for the general information re the various techniques, because it is a beautiful book, and a great reference. I have not mentioned the photography yet. An explosion of patination methods from beginner to advanced skill levels! A nice knife Henkels a couple of different size spoons, a small teacup sized strainer, and a few others. This all-skill-level book covers steel, stainless steel, copper, brass, bronze, silver, and aluminum. Chapter 5 is the hard core chapter where the reader is ready to rock everything about applying the effect he or she wishes to use: it includes, among other topics, surface preparation in relation to colorant application, mechanical cleaning, and chemical cleaning, preparing colorant solutions, using heat for coloration, cold and hot immersion application and more.
Cross-references take you to the variety of patination techniques offered, including immersion, brush application, spraying, fuming, layering, using resists, hot and cold applications, and more. This book is more technical than I expected and covers chemicals I don't use in my small studio. I will be teaching a patina workshop soon. He includes explanations of exactly why the properties of each kind of surface you treat will change how the patina you use appears. I learned so much that I cannot wait to try.